dogo hot springs, japan

Michael and I were in Matsuyama visiting friends. Our second exchange student Mamika and her parents hosted us at Dogo Hot Springs, heralded as the oldest hot springs in Japan. The venerable 1894 building was huge and impressive with its Sansoro-style roof.

Mamika’s family rented a private room where we changed into supplied yukatas. We dipped in the renowned Bath of the Spirits as well as a large public bath filled with local elderly ladies. Afterward we cooled down with tea and bothchan dango.

The Hot Springs is such an integral part of the town that many visitors walk out and about in their yukatas and then head back in for another bath. It’s a little like bikinis being worn as street wear in Venice Beach, CA.

no washing day blues

I have successfully washed six one-yard lengths of the yukata cotton together. This test was in my front-loading washing machine with Trader Joe concentrated clothes detergent and warm/cold water on a casual cycle.

The result: no running or offsetting of the indigo dyes! And the piece with the white background stayed pristine.

The hand of the washed cotton surprised me. Once ironed it was crisp and cool, not soft and limp. As far as I can see, the direct iron did not make the fabric shiny.

flutter-bys

These three butterfly fabrics just arrived from Japan. It’s fun to see the same motif created in such different ways on this vintage indigo-dyed yukata cotton.

japan lover = japanophile

In the background is vintage hand-dyed yukata cotton with pattern of Japanese dance umbrellas.

A gal from Portland posted this hand-painted Japanese bowl on eBay. I wanted it once I saw it. The organic quality of the flower and leaf linework intrigued me the most.

blue and white japan

I love the pic of the sunken open hearth with four blue and white floor pillows—so fresh and bold.

I just got this Amy Katoh book from Amazon: Blue and White Japan. The narrative is 100% Amy: thoughtful and authentic. An American by birth and education, she’s lived in Japan for 40 years. Amy is recognized as a passionate advocate for celebrating and preserving Japan’s craft heritage.

Amy talks about yukata in the book: Most Japanese now wear yukata as summer kimono that are cool and comfortable. Not only the lightness and breathability of the cotton, but the psychological refreshment of the blue and white combination makes the wearer feel cool, even though the garment is long and full-sleeved.

the happy tenugui

Roy and Shines from Beijing, and Ben from Seattle, model their tenugui from Japan.

A martial arts accessory. A sweat band for a chef. A worker's headpiece. Japan's signature towel tells a story with its printed pattern and the way it’s knotted.

The rectangle of cotton is the width of yukata fabric and approximately three times longer. Printed with custom designs, three tenugui from Blue & White shop in Tokyo created a big splash at our welcome-home dinner.

my yokohama connection

Kaname, a seller of high-quality yukata fabrics, was able to meet with me when I was in Tokyo this month. Her hometown of Yokohama is a wonderful place to visit with an exciting waterfront, large Chinatown and many cultural sights.

We met up at a Starbucks by the Yokohama JR station and headed to a nearby hotel lobby to check out her suitcase of wares. I chose 11 bolts of vintage, hand-printed cotton for my collection.

Her fabric comes from a supplier who travels the countryside, buying fabric from estates. Whole bolts are readily found as a kimono is made from a single bolt of silk, wool or cotton.

more from osaka

The top four fabrics are not vintage but instead premium yukata fabrics produced in the last five years. I imported these from the same antique warehouse in Osaka.

osaka treasures

These bolts were imported by me from an antiques warehouse in Osaka. I like the blue on white pattern as I’ll need some contrast if I want my quilts to have any interest.

vintage yakata cottons

Each bolt is 14" wide and 12 yards long.

There is no good explanation for why I have been importing bolts of vintage yukata fabrics. Blue and white aren’t my colors. And I certainly don’t need 500 more yards of cotton in my life.

Yet I feel compelled to collect these 40- to 50-year old rolls of hand-printed cottons. Maybe it’s my life-long interest in Japan. And maybe it’s my love of quilting.